Saturday, November 14, 2015

Zooming to the Internet café

Another day, another dollar they say. Yes, I have to admit that after a day of travelling on the train, tired and hot in the darkness of the idyllic house and with the heat and humidity of the tropical evening, things did not look very positive last night. Nevertheless, Jerry and I decided to go to bed on a positive note of ''tomorrow is another day'' and ''in the daylight things always look brighter.''

After a good night sleep, while hearing the sound of waves, we enjoyed our coffee overlooking the sea from the upstairs bedroom terrace. From this perspective it was a bit easier to ''look at the bright side of life.'' At the same time, the brightness of the day has also shown us even more things that were not working, that needed improvement, cleaning or replacement before the house was able to become a true tropical paradise. Still we were not to be deterred, on a positive note we decided to work hard on making an inventory of things and creating a mini report for the owner of the house back in the UK, specifically England.

Inventory and the report safely on the USB stick we headed for the village, where we were told we would find an Internet café. The local host explained to us in his broken English: ''Go straight, railway crossing straight, go highway straight, village internet café right'' so we understood that the Internet café was in the village, which we would reach by walking to the railway crossing that we passed the night before, when arriving. After crossing the railway we needed to walk straight forward and soon we would see and cross the highway, after which we should see the village and the Internet café, which was to be found on the main drag on the right hand side of the road, some 2 km or 20 minutes walking from the house.

It is 3.30 in the afternoon. It is hot and sticky, but we are determined to find the Internet café. Hence off we go navigating the coconut grove through which we only passed once, the night before, in the darkness with the guidance of our host. We manage to reach the paved road successfully and are lucky to spot an auto rickshaw coming just around the corner. How lucky can you get? Exactly what we needed to get us to the village. We wave and the guy stops and to our surprise we realise that the back is full, there sits a woman with two boys. Not a problem for the driver; he still beckons us to come in and signals to the woman and the boys to make room, which they obligingly do. Jerry and I squeeze in, Jerry's knees sticking out hoping that no car would come from the opposite direction and brush against us taking his knee cups away.
After initial consultations and a slight language problem we managed to explain, or so we thought, that we wanted to go to the village to the Internet café. Of course, the driver repeated the name of the internet café followed by ''yes, yes'' and shaking of his head from left to right.
Jerry asks the driver how much to the village to which he replies '' No problem, Sir'' giving him a smile and the perpetual left to right head shake of all Indians irrespective of the religion, caste or class. I look at Jerry and instead of reassurance, which I am guessing '' No problem, Sir'' was meant to produce I spot a bit of worry written across Jerry's face. I try to reassure him by saying ''don't worry, let's just enjoy the adventure!'' This seems to relax Jerry a bit and he tries to makes himself comfortable in a limited space of the back of the auto rickshaw meant for 2, maximum 3 people, carrying 5 instead.

All set, we leave with the wind in our hair. The first junction and the driver takes a right turn. OK, this does not quite seem to correspond to our local host's description, but who are we to argue. We do not know the way to the village and the driver says he knows, so we watch the scenery and keep holding the bar between us and the driver, as if our dear life depends on it, and maybe it does, given that he drives as if he is trying to break an auto rickshaw record in the fastest customer delivery service category. At the same time he is trying to hold a conversation with us using all 10 words of English that he is fluent in. So we learn that the woman in the back is his wife and the two boys are his sons. With that we arrive to the some kind of a beach promenade that has seen better days and within minutes he slows down, almost to a stopping point, in front of a guest house. We look at it, with no intention of getting out, wondering why he is stopping here. He turns around looking at us, and we say ''Nice house, ...yours?'' to which he says ''Yes'' while shaking his head from left to right probably realising that this is not our destination and pressing the gas pedal again. The suspicion is starting to arise in us, maybe this guy has no clue where we want to go. With that we reach another guest house where he slows down again. Seeing that we have no intention of getting out here either, he is ready to press the gas pedal again when Jerry shouts in half-panic ''Stop, stop, stop!'' He stops, turns around and now in pidgin English we try to explain that we want to go to the village to the Internet café, however this time instead of the name of the café we use the words ''Internet café.'' He seems to finally get it. He makes a U- turn and off we zoom retracing our steps. Finally, he gets us across the railways, and the national highway (mind you this is a single carriageway looking slightly bigger than a village road) and here we are in front of the Internet café on the right-hand side of the main and only road in the village, exactly as our local host explained.
Happy to reach the café and to be alive we pay to the driver 30 rupees only. A bargain!
Especially when you know that he squeezed in an unplanned sightseeing route of the local guest houses for us.
Once inside the Internet café, which really is a room with 5 PC's that have seen better days, we realise that we have no clue how to get back. At this moment Jerry has a brilliant idea. We know that the house we stay in is listed on the Google maps so we try our luck by typing in the name of the village and the name of the house and asking for directions. Voilà! We have the route in front of us. I find this amazing: we are here, sitting at the edge of the jungle and guess what Google has sorted for us...paradoxes of modern globalised world.

Gordana Stankoviċ is a qualified counsellor and life coach. Her counselling and coaching approach is an integration of humanistic counselling, otherwise known as person-centred counselling, and the model of Nonviolent Communication, a process developed by Dr. Marshall B. Rosenberg, which offers practical and powerful skills for compassionate giving, receiving and helping, to create deep, meaningful connections and relationships, and transforming conflicts into peaceful dialogue.
Gordana velues peace, the authenticity of every human being, relationships based on trust, acceptance and genuine contribution to each other's lives.

Tropical paradise...or not?

6 November 2015

This evening after our first Indian train journey we arrived to what is meant to be our home for the next five months; a beautiful house right on the shore of, in fact 20 meters from, the Arabian sea right in the middle of a coconut grove – a tropical paradise.
In order to reach the house we literally had to leg the last leg of our journey from the village road. The car was parked somewhere, just off the road and we walked on a narrow path through tall grass in between coconut trees. All of this, in the dark, following our local host leading the way with a torch from his mobile, showing the way. So, yes, in sum, the guest house is slightly remote, yet very idyllically located overlooking the sea. Idyllic, that seemed, until we entered the house, only to be welcomed by a waft of stale, musty smell of a post-monsoon house humidity air. OK, a bit of a shock, but we have known before coming here that the house needed some TLC, in fact that is actually why we are here. To give a hand to the owner who lives in England and help the local guys bring this B&B to European/international standards.
All is not that bad: the hall looks beautiful, with sofas covered by throws and cushions depicting other Indian motifs with jolly elephants; one of my favourite animals. From the hall I enter what is meant to be the office, however it looks like it was last used just before the British left India before independence and then left in a rush, taking only whatever they could carry on their backs. Old musty pillows on the floor, desk overflowing with papers, and many tidbits left there just in passing by. From there I enter the lovely big kitchen, which looks like it could do with a bit of dusting and sorting out, but I am not demoralised yet. I am determined to stay positive. I see that there is a nice red American style fridge where I hope to place the basic shopping we've done on the way from the train station.
Oh my God !
“what is this?” I wonder loudly in my head.
I open the fridge and seeing the black mould marks inside I exclaimed: ''This is disgusting!'' looking at the local guy – the host – who is supposed to be the person looking after the house and the cook when guests are around. I am already imagining the food poisoning and every illness under the sun looming over us. I cannot even imagine when was the last time that this fridge was cleaned. Alarmed by my face and clear disgust on it, our host quickly picks up the first cloth that he can find and starts cleaning the fridge. I am not going to comment on the cleanliness of that cloth!
That done, I am left alone I the kitchen to sort out the shopping, when suddenly I see a mouse running from the sink to the cooker. I shout for the host and go to find him on the terrace: ''Hey, there is a mouse in the kitchen” say I, in a slightly panicky voice, to which he replies in his broken English, smiling while tilting his head from left to right in the way most Indians do: ''little mouse?''
By this time it is slowly starting to dawn on me that our tropical paradise may turn out to be a tropical nightmare... I am thinking this just as the whole house suddenly descends into darkness – power cut – not a long one, but the first one and, I am to learn, one of many that are part of daily life here in this part of tropical India. My new temporary home is for sure tropical but I am starting to question whether it is a real paradise...

Gordana Stankoviċ is a qualified counsellor and life coach. Her counselling and coaching approach is an integration of humanistic counselling, otherwise known as person-centred counselling, and the model of Nonviolent Communication, a process developed by Dr. Marshall B. Rosenberg, which offers practical and powerful skills for compassionate giving, receiving and helping, to create deep, meaningful connections and relationships, and transforming conflicts into peaceful dialogue.
Gordana velues peace, the authenticity of every human being, relationships based on trust, acceptance and genuine contribution to each other's lives. 
http://www.livingpeacefully.eu 

Friday, November 13, 2015

Rickshaws & Stray Dogs (and the end of the story of the bloomin' cat)


Before touching the subjects that I outlined in the title, I'd like to offer you a paragraph from a book by Leo Buscaglia:
“Nature in Cambodia is very severe (same applies to parts of India, note of this author). Every year the monsoons come and wash everything into the rivers and streams and lakes. So you don't build great permanent mansions because nature has told you that it will only be washed away. You build little huts. Westerners look and say, “Aren't they quaint but poor little people! Living in such squalor.” It's not squalor. It's how you perceive it. They love their houses which are comfortable and exactly right for their climate and culture.”
Leo Buscaglia, Love, p.25, 4th print, 1985 (Fawcett Crest books)

So, Ron the cat is safely home, even if last night we should have delivered her to her new address, yet she managed to pull a runner. In fact, things are not as bad, nor as hectic as they might seem, since today we are going to be brought to the airport by our friend, the one we saw last night, and we can give her Ron. Throughout the morning we keep policing every possible attempt at escape by our little feline. Successfully so.
Ron gets safely delivered. We get safely brought to the airport. First leg of our journey. It will take us to Amsterdam. In the days to follow we are to give a workshop for healthy relationships in the city of The Hague (if you are interested in reading more about that, just click on this sentence).

Fast forward. Different location, different continent. The temperature is about 33 Celsius. Humid. Very humid, probably 70 to 80 %. Everywhere I look, there are palm trees, mangoes, and so many more trees that I don't know. It's so lush and green that I can hardly believe that I am in a city of some 20 million, at least by the statistics I read. Probably, in reality, many more people than that. It's Mumbai, India.
We are currently sitting in an “auto” (auto-rickshaw, these vehicles are also widely known as tuck-tucks); a three-wheeler vehicle. The driver sits in front, behind a protective screen and holds on to a handlebar, which incorporates some of the necessary elements to control the vehicle: brake, throttle, clutch.
In the back, there is a long seat, where there is room for some three people, sitting very close to each other, often more. These vehicles -and their drivers (often referred to as auto wallahs in this part of the world. Some people consider this term derogatory, some don't) - do an amazing job at circumventing traffic jams. They will squeeze into spaces only recognizable to them, attesting to their mastery and an eye for the exact dimensions of their vehicle. They will create lanes where there are none -this morning we are on a highway with three official lanes, yet I counted seven unofficial ones- they will, in other words, get you there as fast as realistically possible on fully gridlocked roads.
Sitting in the “auto” and given my height, all I can really see when I look sideways are bus tires, tires and more tires and the odd, occasional exhaust pipe, kind of spewing exhaust towards us (“autos” are open vehicles).
It is a sprawling urban jungle we drive through: big buildings next to corrugated iron shacks, small stores next to temples, narrow streets next to three-lane highways. They all seem to intertwine perfectly, in a flow that I start understanding, after having spent a few days here.
Everywhere I look, though, while driving to the north-eastern park located some 15 km from where we are currently residing, there are dogs. Kind of stray dogs but to a point.
I refer to them as kind of strays, as they are and aren't, because most of them seem quite well fed and with a pretty happy expression on their faces; yet they live on the streets. Some of them seem to carry some illness or another. Most though, seem pretty healthy. This notwithstanding, I am advised to leave them alone and go stroke domestic pets if I really must, as some of these street-dogs may carry mange (canine scabies).
What strikes me is how street-wise they are. In a city that has more cars than one can possibly imagine, I see these canine friends wiggle their way through major intersections, looking at traffic and negotiating their way to the other side safely.
I speak with some people and they tell me that many city dwellers do distribute food to them, in fact I see a gentleman with a bag full of food going down towards the street. Many dogs around there; they probably know he is coming.
Another thing that strikes me -more generally- is a general mildness and kindness among the people I meet. There is obviously, like anywhere else, another side to this. I am reading in a local newspaper that there are gangs that steal electricity from the grid and distribute it to those slum-dwellers that can't hook up to the grid, because officially their housing is not allowed to exist, as it does not meet certain legal requirements. These gangs get into turf wars, mafia-style. An example of the other side of the coin, to me.
In a city in which many people live, sleep and cook on the streets -literally- it could seem, to many, almost obscene to talk about pooches yet, together with their goat, cat, monkey and cow counterparts, these dogs are part of the urban landscape in this vast nation and undeniably, from what I have seen so far, city dwellers of this part of Mumbai are kind to them.
My personal theory is that much of this is relevant to all the different cultures that inhabit India. Most of them -if not all- seem to argue in favor of respect for all fellow living creatures. This writer is a mix of yogi and Buddhist and I know for certain that both philosophies recommend kindness to our fellow planet-inhabitants, hence also the existence of such a large number of vegetarians in India. If you live by your desire to be kind and compassionate, then eating a fellow planet-inhabitant becomes a bit tricky -mind you, I fail miserably on this front; I still am a meat eater...-
So, my personal, totally unscientific and perhaps a bit biassed conclusion is that most ethnic, religious and otherwise groups that make up this nation of some 1.3 billion want to live in harmony with their environment. Maybe not always successfully, yet, nevertheless, the desire seems to me to be there.